Tecopa, CA
N: 35.87971 W: 116.2334 Elevation: 1333
Tecopa Hot Springs and Campground; space:
NW16
I arrived last
Tuesday evening right at dusk, in a place so far removed from the main stream
populace, I thought I had arrived into a Twilight Zone episode complete with
Rod Steiger narrating to me, after driving through the Mohave Desert to find
the place.
Okay, so the
narration was really the local AM radio station telling me all about the Mohave
Desert and Death Valley while I wound my way up a slight incline (1000 feet) and
then forty miles across one of the loneliest roads I have driven since my
journey began.
After I arrived at
the campground I was cheerfully greeted by a woman dressed in a tan and brown
uniform that knew my ‘desert’ friend by name and laughed and stated that
everyone knew him there in Tecopa.
She showed me his
campsite which he currently was gone from, and I checked in for $15 a night,
signing up for two of them in a row. The
first night my friend never did return to his campsite and I was pretty beat
with my two hundred mile drive from Palm Springs to Tecopa, so I hit the sack
without even soaking in the hot pools, sleeping very well.
It was mid-morning
the following day, after my first soak in the pools, that my ‘desert’ friend
showed up and told me he had given up on me visiting him in the place he calls
heaven.He showed me around the place a bit…meeting a few of the residence who lived there before we headed up to the main town of Tecopa two miles away to have a community dinner at an ‘eclectic’ man’s home in Tecopa Heights.
Let me backtrack some here…Tecopa is in the middle of the desert surrounded by rocky mountain ranges on both the east and southwest. The actual township of Tecopa is one block long and has a community hall, a church and a post office. Once in town there is one road that leads up a slight hill to a residential neighborhood amongst bare desert acres which overlook the small town and the surrounding mountain ranges.
Tecopa Heights consist of about twenty houses with a few old mobile homes and travel trailers thrown in for aesthetic appeal, the whole of the place reminding me of a movie I might have seen years ago, the surrealism of the place overwhelming me.
I was facing backwards in my ‘desert’ friends Sprinter (the seat is stuck in the position facing the back of the vehicle) and I was unable to see where we were truly heading, but I about fell on my butt when I realized where we ended up; the yellow stucco house of my vision.
I had to walk around the place twice, in total amazement, of how close it was to the vision I had about it. It was not 100% correct, as this place had a second house near it, same yellow stucco integrated with rocks and stone that I never saw in the vision, but the house of the ‘eclectic’ man, his place fit the picture I had. There is no longer a screen door (it is propped in back along with other junk) but the front door has a huge window in it, dark, like the one in my vision.
The exterior of the place had paint peeling off of the yellow stucco plaster that cover the wood frame of the house. It reminded me of an old original desert farm house of the movies, complete with broken down windmill and grain storage house plus the additional second building that had obviously been converted into a really cute small house, built for one person to live in.
My heart was racing as I wanted to see the people or person who lived there, to see if I had validity to my vision or if I was still a whack job; both still possible.
The ‘eclectic’ man who stepped out of the dark interior of the yellow stucco house took me by surprise. He had on a dark blue ski hat while wearing a postal blue jacket and navy blue slacks with grey wool socks inside of sneakers.
His eyes were covered in wrap-around sunglasses while his smile was both friendly and bright white as he quickly let my ‘desert’ friend introduce us before he wandered back into his yellow stucco abode.
Mr. ‘eclectic’ wandered in and out of the yellow stucco house, each time wearing different versions of his original outfit but always adding something to it, like a straw sun hat over his ski hat or taking something away like the sneakers for loafers, all while opera music was being sang by a male tenor voice, softly escaping the opened front door.
The five acre land had the tree in the front yard shading the house, like in my vision, but the yard was cluttered with the most eclectic collection of organized junk I have seen in many years. There was even a table so full of organized items that I thought it was a garage sale table and asked the owner of the house if I could purchase a small Pyrex bowl I fell in love with, whereupon he insisted I take it for free, seeing as it wasn’t a garage sale table at all.
Meanwhile, I wandered around looking at the house and property from all types of angles trying to determine if this really could be the place I had a vision about so long ago. I still have no idea, but it is darn close in appearance.
My ‘desert’ friend was cooking a lamb roast in the oven of the small rock and stucco house while his ‘Swedish’ friend helped cook the two squashes I contributed to the meal along with some sweet potatoes and broccoli.
I left the two of them alone in the tiny kitchen to my ‘desert’ friends’ delight, as he is ever so smitten with his lady doctor friend from Sweden that at 68 years old, he still actually blushes in her company.
When the meal was ready to serve, the rest of the company had already arrived and introductions were made as we sat down to the very organic and tasty meal of meat and vegetables.
I met Boris and Natasha (from the cartoon Rocky and Bullwinkle) who were from Germany (not Russia) but spoke in heavy accents and actually were shaped like the characters I named them after. Boris was a stocky man with dark facial and head hair, who spoke rarely but ate lots; while Natasha had short black hair cut straight at her jawline who had heavily made up eyes and lips that went with her high cheek bones, heavy accent, and svelte frame.
They were only in Tecopa for one more night before heading back to Germany where they lived nine months out of the year, the other three months were spent just up the road from the yellow stucco house.
There was an elderly gentleman from Holland, who was soft spoken in both mannerism and speech who contributed to the dinner his aged brandy and a heartfelt moment that brought tears to my eyes.
The ‘eclectic’ man brought in three large bottles of imported beer and the Swedish doctor retrieved glasses for everyone to share the welcomed beverage.
Mr. ‘eclectic’ sat next to me at the table smiling his bright smile, giving me an opportunity to finally see his eyes, which were grey like his socks. He still wore his ski hat but had changed clothes once more, this time wearing a dark sweater and sweat pants.
Everyone served up and the meal began, pleasant and tasteful as we ate. That is until Mr. ‘eclectic’ ask everyone; ‘Has anyone ever been so close to death they thought they were dying?’ This brought an odd assortment of stares before slowly, people began to answer him.
The Swedish doctor said she fell asleep behind the wheel of a car once and had no idea how she got back home while Natasha said she was in a car wreck and it felt like she could have died.
The Holland man answered by saying he almost died in WWII from starvation and that he and his family went many days only drinking water.
You could have heard a pin drop when he continued on about people who skip a meal and think they are hungry, he emphasized that ‘many’ days would pass between meals and how he lost family members due to starvation.
The Swedish doctor changed the question around and asked if there had ever been a day in a person’s life when they felt like they had been reborn.
Boris spoke up and said it was the day his daughter was born and he held her for the first time, and all the women at the table unanimously said, ‘awe’.
Mr. Holland looked up with tears in his eyes and spoke ever so softly; “It was the day that the Swedish flew planes overhead of our homes and dropped loaves of bread to our starving tables.” He then rose and left the small house where we had gathered for our meal together.
It was upon his return shortly thereafter that he brought in the bottle of brandy and we all had a small shot glass full in celebrations of good friends and good times.
My ‘desert’ friend said we had to leave immediately so I said my good-byes as we drove out of there driving the three miles back to the campground where I needed to hook up my electricity before nightfall.
After consideration of my finances, I paid a low monthly rent for a space in the campground and paid slightly higher for electricity to run my computer and my heater, (instead of spending money driving around in circles), before I had really stopped and considered where I had placed myself for a whole month.
The campground has a wonderful view and many trees, both palm and leaf tree specimens, plus a huge flat camping ground that is divided into four different areas, each with its own set of rest rooms and wash stations.
The water here is not drinkable due to the strong minerals in the soil and the springs that feed the local water supply. There are many alkaline lake beds dotting the valley between the dark mountainous western view, scattered amongst knee high brown desert grasses, which creates the illusion of snow on the tundra of the artic.
There is a run off pond that is rectangular in shape and holds about one hundred ducks that swim back and forth most of the days that the wind stays below ten miles an hour, otherwise they hang out on the edge of the plastic coated liner and squawk about the wind.
And yes, the wind does blow through here. My ‘desert’ friend assures me he told me about the wind but somewhere in my foggy brain I don’t remember him saying that most days the wind pushes the ten to fifteen mile an hour mark, rarely getting to less than five miles on the calmest of evenings.
We have been having gusts up to 45 MPH per the weather chart posted at the campground office, and the way my van has been being jostled around, I have no doubts they are correct.
The hot springs pools here are segregated by gender creating two sides plus there are no bathing suits or clothing allowed in either of the two pools per each side.
You must shower before and after your soak as the water is very soft and extremely clear. One pool is hot (104 degrees) and the other is a cool pool that is the winded, colder water, filtered off of the hot pool making it only a few degrees cooler. Each pool is twenty foot by twenty foot cement that has steel poles for handrails and exercise bars within each one.
There is a campground office that is also a souvenir shop/grocery store which only mark up their supplies slightly higher than you can get in the city grocery stores.
Behind the office is the Tecopa Public Library where you can sign up for half hour increments of internet service on the three days they are open; Monday, Tuesday, and Thursdays, 7:00 AM to 3:00 PM and where you can check out books, magazines or DVD’s for up to a week at a time.
Behind the public library is the fire station and aid car, although I have yet to see any of the volunteer firefighters wandering around while I have been out and about, I really wonder if any of them are under sixty years old, as this truly is a retirement community and I am pretty much a young whippersnapper compared to the general age populace here.
Across the main road there is the Hurlbut-Rook Community Center where the seniors can go and get a free lunch (if they request it 24 hours in advance) as well as coffee and public services.
On Monday, Wednesdays, and Fridays, there is an aerobics class at 9:00 with Richard Simmons doing a cardiovascular workout for seniors via a DVD, while on Tuesdays at 6PM there is bingo for anyone who brings a wrapped food/gift item, which in turns become the prize for winning a bingo game.
Every two weeks there is a bus for five dollars each way, which will take you to Pahrump, Nevada to do your bi-weekly shopping and to get internet and phone service. I will be on the bus this Thursday as I need a few things I forgot last Saturday when my ‘desert’ friend and I took off in his Sprinter and drove the 29 miles across the state line to get supplies.
Every Monday and Tuesday are the tours bus days and the days when I avoid going into the pools until much later in the evening. On these days two or three tour busses will show up between 9 and 11 in the morning full of Asian soakers, each bus holding a full capacity of 50 people. Not all of the people soak but it is like a pond full of geese when they arrive and take up both pools and both showers.
My favorite time to soak has been during dinner time for everyone else. I have been having an early meal then going to soak and to do evening water exercises that make my muscles tired enough for bed. The hot water makes my skin warm enough to endure walking back to my van in the windy nights.
The wildlife around my camp has been interesting as I throw out Herbette’s left over bird seed which has attracted various birds to the camp.
Before I threw out her first batch I was visited by a road runner. He wandered around the camp pecking at the ground before dipping over the small ravine that leads down to alkaline flats.
There is a family of quail that come around every day around four o’clock pecking on the ground for leftovers they are sure will be there now. They make an odd chirping noise while they eat; their little top feather bobbing around in the wind makes me laugh while I watch them.
There have been a few ravens that fly high overhead but none seem interested in the wares of the humans in camp. I also have two ring neck doves that are hungry for leftover seed and don’t mind coming right up to the van to beg for even more.
Every night the valley below my shallow ravine becomes filled with the sound of hundreds of frogs croaking and creaking somewhere out amongst the wet alkaline marshlands that surround my camp. It is very peaceful to hear them out there under the stars.
If it wasn’t for the gusting wind, this place would be a desert paradise like my friend insist he has found and has now help me find, all while Traveling Thru The Tonda Zone!
~Peace~